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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.